Hello, gentlemen, thanks for letting me in.
This is my h-bot design (yes, I know what you're going to say about racking, but so far this has been a non-issue). I could turn it into a CoreXY with a few extra bearings, but at the moment I would rather not. Components are mostly china-made or chinese clones (Rumba, E3D, MK8 extruder). The design was inspired by several other printers (leapfrog creatr, 3dprintedlife's Eclips3d, ultimaker 2, 5th gen replicator mini, hypercube, hypercube evo, etc), which you can tell by looking at certain details.
Linear rails are taiwanese Hiwin (kind of overkill now that I have tested both Hiwin and some chinese clones), Z-rods are 12mm, build platform is 4.7mm aluminum.
It has an acrylic build platform as a practical placeholder, but I have a 150x100mm heated bed designed for it which I will eventualy have made out of 1.6 or 2mm MCPCB, which is supposed to use Ultimaker 2-style clips to hold the glass plate in place. Printing to bare acrylic or bluetap I have no issue with adhesion. In fact, PLA sticks a bit too well to both, but I think it's just a matter of finding the right z-offset. It has no z-probe, but since the z-endstop is optical the bed can travel some mm up after it's triggered, that way I can use the manual-probing automatic bed levelling function in Marlin.
Printed parts are made of ABS because I had a roll lying around. The extruder holder is the same part as Hypercube Evolution's Z-motor holder. In fact, I started with a Hypercube Evolution frame and designed my own to fit it.
It's not intended to be used enclosed with a heated chamber, as the aluminum gantry plate bolted to the x-axis linear rail would work as a bimetal, that wouldn't be good at all. It originally had an extrusion on the top-front part, but I had to remove it because it would cause the rails to bind, since the frame is not exactly square, but it looks way cooler like this. Maybe I'll eventually bolt the XY stage to a milled or laser-cut aluminum plate and ditch several other portions of the frame as well, but that will require quite a bit of redesign.
I still need to design/print a few accessories, but it prints really, really well, but then again so do 199$ chinese printers nowadays.
IMGUR album here: [imgur.com]
This is my h-bot design (yes, I know what you're going to say about racking, but so far this has been a non-issue). I could turn it into a CoreXY with a few extra bearings, but at the moment I would rather not. Components are mostly china-made or chinese clones (Rumba, E3D, MK8 extruder). The design was inspired by several other printers (leapfrog creatr, 3dprintedlife's Eclips3d, ultimaker 2, 5th gen replicator mini, hypercube, hypercube evo, etc), which you can tell by looking at certain details.
Linear rails are taiwanese Hiwin (kind of overkill now that I have tested both Hiwin and some chinese clones), Z-rods are 12mm, build platform is 4.7mm aluminum.
It has an acrylic build platform as a practical placeholder, but I have a 150x100mm heated bed designed for it which I will eventualy have made out of 1.6 or 2mm MCPCB, which is supposed to use Ultimaker 2-style clips to hold the glass plate in place. Printing to bare acrylic or bluetap I have no issue with adhesion. In fact, PLA sticks a bit too well to both, but I think it's just a matter of finding the right z-offset. It has no z-probe, but since the z-endstop is optical the bed can travel some mm up after it's triggered, that way I can use the manual-probing automatic bed levelling function in Marlin.
Printed parts are made of ABS because I had a roll lying around. The extruder holder is the same part as Hypercube Evolution's Z-motor holder. In fact, I started with a Hypercube Evolution frame and designed my own to fit it.
It's not intended to be used enclosed with a heated chamber, as the aluminum gantry plate bolted to the x-axis linear rail would work as a bimetal, that wouldn't be good at all. It originally had an extrusion on the top-front part, but I had to remove it because it would cause the rails to bind, since the frame is not exactly square, but it looks way cooler like this. Maybe I'll eventually bolt the XY stage to a milled or laser-cut aluminum plate and ditch several other portions of the frame as well, but that will require quite a bit of redesign.
I still need to design/print a few accessories, but it prints really, really well, but then again so do 199$ chinese printers nowadays.
IMGUR album here: [imgur.com]