Yeah this is another CoreXY build hoping to get your valuable review.
I've built and run my CoreXY from china kit for a few months, put it in empty closet as enclosure (PLA parts distorted), tried 10mm carbon fiber rods to reduce x axis weight (not easy to find proper clearance of the plastic bearing), attached 40x40mm water-cooling pads to steppers to prevent overheating (not bad), and eventually I realized I need a more reliable machine if I want go further.
Thank a lot to many previous discussions, especially digital dentist's blog gave so much insights. Here I list my thoughts, pics and some questions, hope to be reviewed before ordering parts. I'm not an native English speaker so please just point out if anything not precise.
[attachment 110299 ScreenShot2019-03-01at19.05.01.png]
[attachment 110300 ScreenShot2019-03-01at19.04.10.png]
[attachment 110301 ScreenShot2019-03-01at19.06.27.png]
[attachment 110302 ScreenShot2019-03-01at19.07.15.png]
Goal
- Multi-material capability including TPU, ABS, PETG and PC which prints can be used in my car or engine bay.
- Prefer precession > durability > speed > power consumption
- Waste less time on upgrading/adjusting the printer, spend more time on designing real useful parts
- 300x300x300 print size or larger
Frame
- 30x30 extrusion frame
- 6061 5mm plate as XY plane
- All steppers will be outside of the frame.
- Put power, control board, filament, water pump/tank above the frame. Water hoses and filament tube go into the enclosure from top.
Transmission
- Genuine HIWIN MGN12H and 400mm rails
- 2GT 10mm belt and stacked F608zz as idler with no other support. I think the 8mm bolt/nut/washer combination should be rigid enough to prevent tilting.
- Belt tensioner with M3 screw pushing XY stepper mount backward.
- Z axis is moved by two 1204 ball screws which driven by single belt. The Rino worm drive + belt-suspended solution is too expensive.
Bed & Extruder
- 24V power + SSR + thin aluminum heating plate + boro glass for easily retrieving the print. Sometimes the print sticks too well and I want to be gentle to the bed and linear rail so I gave up the neat tooling plate solution.
- Direct extrude with NEMA17 20mm short stepper with Titan Aqua water cooling extruder to resist 80c ~ 100c chamber temperature.
After two weeks of study and design, these are some points I can't make decision with...
- since the CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion) of two metals are different and the linear rail and aluminum plate are locked together, will they bend if the air temperature raises to 80c ~ 100c when printing polycarbonate?
- any experience of replacing the 6061 X base plate with 5mm or even 8mm carbon fiber plate? I'm still not that comfortable with dentist's design which leaves one end of the x axis rail supported by a linear block. I googled that the CTE of carbon fiber are about 1/10 of aluminum, 1/5 of steel, which should be good enough under high temperature. Also 5~8mm thickness of CF should resist twisting or bending.
- is there better way to mount MGN12 rail (m3 bolts) onto the 3030 extrusion (m4 T-nut)? although one more aluminum plate between the rail and extrusion will do but it seems too long to be rigid enough. Choose other brands of linear rail with m4 bolt?
- is it worth that expense to choose IKO/THK than HIWIN?
Needs your valuable comments, thank you!
I've built and run my CoreXY from china kit for a few months, put it in empty closet as enclosure (PLA parts distorted), tried 10mm carbon fiber rods to reduce x axis weight (not easy to find proper clearance of the plastic bearing), attached 40x40mm water-cooling pads to steppers to prevent overheating (not bad), and eventually I realized I need a more reliable machine if I want go further.
Thank a lot to many previous discussions, especially digital dentist's blog gave so much insights. Here I list my thoughts, pics and some questions, hope to be reviewed before ordering parts. I'm not an native English speaker so please just point out if anything not precise.
[attachment 110299 ScreenShot2019-03-01at19.05.01.png]
[attachment 110300 ScreenShot2019-03-01at19.04.10.png]
[attachment 110301 ScreenShot2019-03-01at19.06.27.png]
[attachment 110302 ScreenShot2019-03-01at19.07.15.png]
Goal
- Multi-material capability including TPU, ABS, PETG and PC which prints can be used in my car or engine bay.
- Prefer precession > durability > speed > power consumption
- Waste less time on upgrading/adjusting the printer, spend more time on designing real useful parts
- 300x300x300 print size or larger
Frame
- 30x30 extrusion frame
- 6061 5mm plate as XY plane
- All steppers will be outside of the frame.
- Put power, control board, filament, water pump/tank above the frame. Water hoses and filament tube go into the enclosure from top.
Transmission
- Genuine HIWIN MGN12H and 400mm rails
- 2GT 10mm belt and stacked F608zz as idler with no other support. I think the 8mm bolt/nut/washer combination should be rigid enough to prevent tilting.
- Belt tensioner with M3 screw pushing XY stepper mount backward.
- Z axis is moved by two 1204 ball screws which driven by single belt. The Rino worm drive + belt-suspended solution is too expensive.
Bed & Extruder
- 24V power + SSR + thin aluminum heating plate + boro glass for easily retrieving the print. Sometimes the print sticks too well and I want to be gentle to the bed and linear rail so I gave up the neat tooling plate solution.
- Direct extrude with NEMA17 20mm short stepper with Titan Aqua water cooling extruder to resist 80c ~ 100c chamber temperature.
After two weeks of study and design, these are some points I can't make decision with...
- since the CTE (coefficient of thermal expansion) of two metals are different and the linear rail and aluminum plate are locked together, will they bend if the air temperature raises to 80c ~ 100c when printing polycarbonate?
- any experience of replacing the 6061 X base plate with 5mm or even 8mm carbon fiber plate? I'm still not that comfortable with dentist's design which leaves one end of the x axis rail supported by a linear block. I googled that the CTE of carbon fiber are about 1/10 of aluminum, 1/5 of steel, which should be good enough under high temperature. Also 5~8mm thickness of CF should resist twisting or bending.
- is there better way to mount MGN12 rail (m3 bolts) onto the 3030 extrusion (m4 T-nut)? although one more aluminum plate between the rail and extrusion will do but it seems too long to be rigid enough. Choose other brands of linear rail with m4 bolt?
- is it worth that expense to choose IKO/THK than HIWIN?
Needs your valuable comments, thank you!