What are the rated dynamic loads that say a high speed Core XY motion generates? I see robotdigg has some new linear motion parts i.e. [www.robotdigg.com] these 35mm roller guides, they look perfect for a long bare x-bridge :) i'm asking because i want to start designing a new machine with 500x500x600 build space that's also high speed and i'm interested to see what my limitations are.. thanks!
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Mid/Big size Core XY linear motion parts (no replies)
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Corexy, homing at x-max and y-max problem (3 replies)
The axis do not stop when the Max endstop switches are triggered, I have checked the wiring and the endstops with M119 command.
Any Ideas on how I can solve this, here is my code
Any Ideas on how I can solve this, here is my code
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Folger FT-5 or HyperCube and bed with one side support (3 replies)
Hi Guys
I am wanting to build either one of these printers , at least I would like to build a CoreXY printer. ( Build volume X400 Y 300 Z 400 ) with 30x30MM aluminium extrusions.
Which out of the two do you prefer and reasons ?
The other question is , do you think its important to have the bed supported on both sides ( two or one Z Stepper motor ). I see some have only on the one side.
Wondering if the bed vibrates because the opposite end has no support.
I would appreciate your comments and ideas ,
Thanks
Vaughan
I am wanting to build either one of these printers , at least I would like to build a CoreXY printer. ( Build volume X400 Y 300 Z 400 ) with 30x30MM aluminium extrusions.
Which out of the two do you prefer and reasons ?
The other question is , do you think its important to have the bed supported on both sides ( two or one Z Stepper motor ). I see some have only on the one side.
Wondering if the bed vibrates because the opposite end has no support.
I would appreciate your comments and ideas ,
Thanks
Vaughan
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MAVB3D (7 replies)
Hi all,
I want to pick up my build which sort-of started maybe 18-24 months ago now. Long story short, I found a girl (we're getting married in September) but this is something I got a damn good start on and would like to finish.
Anyway, I've had a few printers starting with a home-made Cherry Pi IIIS delta. Was a silly way to get introduced to 3D printing and I really should have done something easier like a Prusa i3. Probably 8 hours building and 40 hours debugging! I did get it printing awesomely though so I'm confident to go back to something a little more conventional but scaled up. Also acquired a M3D Micro from Kickstarter, which is cool, but the lack of a heated bed really makes it pretty limited. Actually considering backing the Obsidian too when it goes up in the next few days but we'll see.
Here's how well I got my delta honed in:
[attachment 95541 datLayerTho.jpg]
Basically the idea for this was to build a massive volume 3D printer that could do its thing for days on end without supervision. I forget what the acronym for MAVB3D is, but it was cool at the time so I'm going to keep it as that for the project name.
Design is mostly built around those Vulcanus Max (CoreXY) printers that were floating around a few years ago. Admittedly they were the inspiration although I have deviated from the design a bit. [www.instructables.com] End goal is to have a print envelope of around 500x500x500mm with maybe a 50 micron print resolution.
I printed most of the plastics required as per here:
[attachment 95542 plasticBits.jpg]
Main thing I haven't printed yet is the extruder carriage as I want to go a bit custom with that. First iteration will be just a single direct drive (was considering Bowden for a while, but that's going to be unusable with the massive tubes required) and I'll try to make it dual-head one day. Hopefully I can use 23mm high NEMA17s to keep down the weight of this carriage. Although it's being made to support massive objects I'll be using standard 1.75mm filament with a 0.4mm nozzle - I do want good quality prints despite the size.
I figured taking a triangular approach to mounting the print bed was going to be the easiest way to scale this up. It'll be driven by a single NEMA23 as discussed in this topic: [forums.reprap.org]. The bed will have three leadscrews driving vertically (two on the sides, close to the front, and one at the rear in the centre) and four smooth rods at the four corners (on the sides). Lead screws will sit on these castor-type bearings that I found (can't remember their technical name):
[attachment 95540 bearingSelfie.jpg]
Also made these nice little brackets to hold the leadscrews in place with standard 608 bearings:
[attachment 95543 rodHolders.jpg]
Main drive for the leadscrews should be 16 tooth at the motor and 40 tooth at the base of the rods. Got plenty of everything though:
[attachment 95544 toolbox.jpg]
Hoping to manually adjust bed level, again using triangular technique, using valve springs from a 1998 Toyota Camry. Funnily enough they are brilliant for this application - they're made to withstand extreme heat, are made to have a large amount of pressure, and were absolutely free. Two of these will be on the back edge of the print bed (at either corner) with a third at the centre middle of the front edge. Once I hone these in I probably will never need to adjust them ever again.
[attachment 95545 valveSpring.jpg]
I've got a nice big chunk of flatness-milled aluminium for the bed. It's 8mm thick if I recall and should have a flatness of 0.38mm over 6ft (again, if memory serves). Might throw a very thin piece of float glass over the top to protect the bed too. Bed is already ~10kg. Did get a nice big silicone mat to heat it up too which will stick on the bottom.
Already have built the frame. It's large! Base is 750x750mm on the outer and barely fits through doorways. It's mounted on some chipboard too for extra stability. Unlike the Vulcanus Max I used 20x40 pieces of rail to give it more rigidity in most areas, and my corner posts are 40x40mm. Should be bloody rigid.
For electronics I was going to go one of those cheap AliExpress MKS SBase boards (seriously, dat price!), but I've since decided I'll pay 10x more and go for a Duet WiFi + Duex5. Mostly made this decided this for the support factor (David and those involved are priceless) and less to troubleshoot without having to worry about the electronics being dodgy. Might go a PanelDue and IR Probe too but we'll see how money comes.
Decided to run the thing on 24v due to the amount of power needed. Ended up being more economical when it came to power supplies. Have a few other things I want it to handle (like LEDs) so may have a small 12v PSU to handle a few independent systems. We'll see how it goes though.
First thing I need to do is perform a stocktake, see what I really do and don't have, and figure out exactly how I'm going to execute some of the more creative bits and pieces. I'll hopefully make a post or two on here as things progress! No doubt there'll be requests for troubleshooting come through.
I want to pick up my build which sort-of started maybe 18-24 months ago now. Long story short, I found a girl (we're getting married in September) but this is something I got a damn good start on and would like to finish.
Anyway, I've had a few printers starting with a home-made Cherry Pi IIIS delta. Was a silly way to get introduced to 3D printing and I really should have done something easier like a Prusa i3. Probably 8 hours building and 40 hours debugging! I did get it printing awesomely though so I'm confident to go back to something a little more conventional but scaled up. Also acquired a M3D Micro from Kickstarter, which is cool, but the lack of a heated bed really makes it pretty limited. Actually considering backing the Obsidian too when it goes up in the next few days but we'll see.
Here's how well I got my delta honed in:
[attachment 95541 datLayerTho.jpg]
Basically the idea for this was to build a massive volume 3D printer that could do its thing for days on end without supervision. I forget what the acronym for MAVB3D is, but it was cool at the time so I'm going to keep it as that for the project name.
Design is mostly built around those Vulcanus Max (CoreXY) printers that were floating around a few years ago. Admittedly they were the inspiration although I have deviated from the design a bit. [www.instructables.com] End goal is to have a print envelope of around 500x500x500mm with maybe a 50 micron print resolution.
I printed most of the plastics required as per here:
[attachment 95542 plasticBits.jpg]
Main thing I haven't printed yet is the extruder carriage as I want to go a bit custom with that. First iteration will be just a single direct drive (was considering Bowden for a while, but that's going to be unusable with the massive tubes required) and I'll try to make it dual-head one day. Hopefully I can use 23mm high NEMA17s to keep down the weight of this carriage. Although it's being made to support massive objects I'll be using standard 1.75mm filament with a 0.4mm nozzle - I do want good quality prints despite the size.
I figured taking a triangular approach to mounting the print bed was going to be the easiest way to scale this up. It'll be driven by a single NEMA23 as discussed in this topic: [forums.reprap.org]. The bed will have three leadscrews driving vertically (two on the sides, close to the front, and one at the rear in the centre) and four smooth rods at the four corners (on the sides). Lead screws will sit on these castor-type bearings that I found (can't remember their technical name):
[attachment 95540 bearingSelfie.jpg]
Also made these nice little brackets to hold the leadscrews in place with standard 608 bearings:
[attachment 95543 rodHolders.jpg]
Main drive for the leadscrews should be 16 tooth at the motor and 40 tooth at the base of the rods. Got plenty of everything though:
[attachment 95544 toolbox.jpg]
Hoping to manually adjust bed level, again using triangular technique, using valve springs from a 1998 Toyota Camry. Funnily enough they are brilliant for this application - they're made to withstand extreme heat, are made to have a large amount of pressure, and were absolutely free. Two of these will be on the back edge of the print bed (at either corner) with a third at the centre middle of the front edge. Once I hone these in I probably will never need to adjust them ever again.
[attachment 95545 valveSpring.jpg]
I've got a nice big chunk of flatness-milled aluminium for the bed. It's 8mm thick if I recall and should have a flatness of 0.38mm over 6ft (again, if memory serves). Might throw a very thin piece of float glass over the top to protect the bed too. Bed is already ~10kg. Did get a nice big silicone mat to heat it up too which will stick on the bottom.
Already have built the frame. It's large! Base is 750x750mm on the outer and barely fits through doorways. It's mounted on some chipboard too for extra stability. Unlike the Vulcanus Max I used 20x40 pieces of rail to give it more rigidity in most areas, and my corner posts are 40x40mm. Should be bloody rigid.
For electronics I was going to go one of those cheap AliExpress MKS SBase boards (seriously, dat price!), but I've since decided I'll pay 10x more and go for a Duet WiFi + Duex5. Mostly made this decided this for the support factor (David and those involved are priceless) and less to troubleshoot without having to worry about the electronics being dodgy. Might go a PanelDue and IR Probe too but we'll see how money comes.
Decided to run the thing on 24v due to the amount of power needed. Ended up being more economical when it came to power supplies. Have a few other things I want it to handle (like LEDs) so may have a small 12v PSU to handle a few independent systems. We'll see how it goes though.
First thing I need to do is perform a stocktake, see what I really do and don't have, and figure out exactly how I'm going to execute some of the more creative bits and pieces. I'll hopefully make a post or two on here as things progress! No doubt there'll be requests for troubleshooting come through.
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My CoreXYU Printer project (4 replies)
First a few goals I wanted to achieve with this project:
Quick summary of build:
Originally, I considered a Ultimaker style gantry but got inspired by prot0typ1cal dual corexy project Hlidskjalf and decided to go for that kind of kinematics.
This project is my first 3d-printer build so the design probably has quite a few flaws I’m sure you guys will point out ;)
The end goal is not a finished printer that can be mass produced but a one of printer I can continue to improve and try new ideas on.
- Large print volume for printing big objects.
- Print PLA, ABS, TPU and other materials.
- A minimum of two colours/materials in one print.
- Layer height: 0.20+ (0.1 should not be a problem but takes too long to print)
- Print speeds: 60-100mm/s with decent quality
- Travel speed: 250-300mm/s
Quick summary of build:
- Dual extruder CoreXYU IDEX (two carriages share same gantry).
- Outer dimensions without top: 750x750x1200mm
- Build area: 500x500x750mm
- 8mm milled aluminium heated (1400W) bed.
- 40x40 aluminium profiles for sturdy frame.
- 20mm steel linear rods with igus iglide sleeve bearing, 12mm aluminium for gantry, cheap and readily available.
- Heated enclosure (up to 70°C), planning to use PC sheets. Electronics and steppers are located at bottom of printer to keep out of enclosure.
- Three-point auto levelling bed that can tilt at end of print for easy access to bed.
- Air pump part cooling.
- E3D v6 hotends (might consider water cooled hotends later).
- 24V PSU.
- Duet Wifi + duex 5 as controller.
- Remote direct drives for lightweight carriages (Zesty nifty).
- 4 * Neam 17 0.9deg 2A 46Ncm 17HM19-2004S steppers for corexyu.
- 3 * Nema 17 1.8deg 2A 59Ncm 17HS19-2004S1 steppers for bed.
- 2 * Nema 17 1.8deg 2A 59Ncm 17HS19-2004S1 steppers for extruders.
- Quite a lot of printed parts as I do not have access to an aluminium cnc mill (yes, I know printed parts is not ideal for print quality but lightweight carriages might mitigate this problem somewhat).
Originally, I considered a Ultimaker style gantry but got inspired by prot0typ1cal dual corexy project Hlidskjalf and decided to go for that kind of kinematics.
This project is my first 3d-printer build so the design probably has quite a few flaws I’m sure you guys will point out ;)
The end goal is not a finished printer that can be mass produced but a one of printer I can continue to improve and try new ideas on.
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Building a custom CoreXY (5 replies)
This is to be a build log for a custom machine I am making.
Parts list so far:
24v 15amp power supply
NEMA 17 motors
V6 clone hotend
DUET board
13"x13" build plate
400mm rods and screw drives
custom made Zesty Nimble extruder
power monitor for seeing power usage
12864 LCD
Rasberry PI with 7" touch screen, though may change this
So, I have been working on a custom CoreXY machine. Have a large 13”x13” build plate and have been slowly gathering parts to put this together.I was wanting to keep it as confined to the inside of the frame of the machine. Original plan was to use a bowden but then I found the Zesty Nimble. After talking with Brian and Lykle I asked them if it was possible to make one that had its drive cable come in from the side. Within a day they had drawn up plans for a unit, here it is, the Sidewinder! (working title).
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For those of you who don’t know what the Nimble system is, its a cable driven extruder. It gives you all the lightness of a bowden setup, but without the backlash of bound material in the tube. The guys have been hard at work testing out the new design and I should be the proud owner of the first of these new units. For anyone else doing a CoreXY they will also have the unit up for sale soon! Soon as I get mine up and running Ill be sure to show you all what it can do! :D
Plan for now is to make the frame from 1" birch plywood. Laying out everything best as I can for most efficient thermal layout. Electronics down low, build area up top. Once i get all the parts I should start building the fram fairly quickly. Just dont want to build something only to find something needed more room.
Parts list so far:
24v 15amp power supply
NEMA 17 motors
V6 clone hotend
DUET board
13"x13" build plate
400mm rods and screw drives
custom made Zesty Nimble extruder
power monitor for seeing power usage
12864 LCD
Rasberry PI with 7" touch screen, though may change this
So, I have been working on a custom CoreXY machine. Have a large 13”x13” build plate and have been slowly gathering parts to put this together.I was wanting to keep it as confined to the inside of the frame of the machine. Original plan was to use a bowden but then I found the Zesty Nimble. After talking with Brian and Lykle I asked them if it was possible to make one that had its drive cable come in from the side. Within a day they had drawn up plans for a unit, here it is, the Sidewinder! (working title).
For those of you who don’t know what the Nimble system is, its a cable driven extruder. It gives you all the lightness of a bowden setup, but without the backlash of bound material in the tube. The guys have been hard at work testing out the new design and I should be the proud owner of the first of these new units. For anyone else doing a CoreXY they will also have the unit up for sale soon! Soon as I get mine up and running Ill be sure to show you all what it can do! :D
Plan for now is to make the frame from 1" birch plywood. Laying out everything best as I can for most efficient thermal layout. Electronics down low, build area up top. Once i get all the parts I should start building the fram fairly quickly. Just dont want to build something only to find something needed more room.
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FuseBox2 Printer (no replies)
After 2 years of printing with my FuseBox, I've been working on a successor design. Predictably named the FuseBox2, it takes the low-price and accessibility of the original and makes improvements upon reliability, quality, and speed.
[attachment 96137 IMAG0369.jpg]
Here's an album of the build: http://imgur.com/a/Kdmro
Github repo: [github.com] // Thingiverse page: [www.thingiverse.com]
Key improvements include a much more rigid 2020/2040 frame, vertical gantry for easier hotend removal, improved cooling duct that doesn't focus air on the heater block, and more robust endstop mounts.
Overall I'm pretty happy with the way the printer's turning out. I still need to mount the LCD, PSU, and cord socket as well as do some more fine tuning to the firmware/slicer settings.
[attachment 96137 IMAG0369.jpg]
Here's an album of the build: http://imgur.com/a/Kdmro
Github repo: [github.com] // Thingiverse page: [www.thingiverse.com]
Key improvements include a much more rigid 2020/2040 frame, vertical gantry for easier hotend removal, improved cooling duct that doesn't focus air on the heater block, and more robust endstop mounts.
Overall I'm pretty happy with the way the printer's turning out. I still need to mount the LCD, PSU, and cord socket as well as do some more fine tuning to the firmware/slicer settings.
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High Quality CoreXY Build Help needed with components (no replies)
Hi Everyone,
I want to build a high quality sturdy Core XY machine. I have a budget of around £1500.00 and only need a Bed size of about 30x30x30mm. Does anyone know of a setup that will allow me to build something with this budget.
The parts have to be all high quality and solid I am mainly looking to go for Linear rails instead of Rod but I am not sure about the Motors and the frame.
I want to build a high quality sturdy Core XY machine. I have a budget of around £1500.00 and only need a Bed size of about 30x30x30mm. Does anyone know of a setup that will allow me to build something with this budget.
The parts have to be all high quality and solid I am mainly looking to go for Linear rails instead of Rod but I am not sure about the Motors and the frame.
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True bed levelling using multiple Z leadscrews (1 reply)
Of possible interest to CoreXY printer builders is that the latest release of RepRapFirmware supports bed levelling using 2, 3 or (if you insist) 4 Z leadscrew motors driven from individual stepper drivers. The procedure is described at [duet3d.com]. It uses a least-squares algorithm similar to our famous delta printer auto calibration algorithm.
When multiple motors are used to drive the Z axis it is not uncommon for them to lose sync when the printer is powered off and on again. This feature provides automatic resynchronization.
We had expected to be the first firmware to support bed levelling using multiple leadscrews, but Repetier beat us to it.
When multiple motors are used to drive the Z axis it is not uncommon for them to lose sync when the printer is powered off and on again. This feature provides automatic resynchronization.
We had expected to be the first firmware to support bed levelling using multiple leadscrews, but Repetier beat us to it.
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CoreXY design flaw spotted, EdgeXY concept fixes it, comments and review of analysis appreciated (3 replies)
hi, i was made aware of a design concept called EdgeXY just recently, and so did a design analysis comparing it to CoreXY:
[forums.reprap.org]
the conclusion: CoreXY has a design flaw, which only surfaces under very specific (combined) conditions: (a) high acceleration, (b) carriage is off-centre on the X-Gantry (left or right, but the further away from centre the greater the distortion) and (c) movement (with high acceleration) is in the Y-direction.
if we were to work out a formula for the amount of distortion it would be:
* let width of printer be called X
* let the position of the carriage on the X-gantry be Px
* let center point of X-gantry be Cx, equal to X/2
* let acceleration in Y direction be Ya
* let c be an arbitrary constant
* let the function absolute(X) be equal to X if X > 0 otherwise -X
then the amount of distortion would be:
* c times absolute(Px-Cx) times Ya
the design flaw stems from the fact that the X-Gantry is free to rotate, with only the mechanical strength of the rails/rods and the attachment of the X-Gantry to those rails/rods being the sole method of stopping any such potential rotation.
in the message referenced above i carry out an analysis which shows that the Edge-XY concept does *not* suffer from this critical flaw.
can anyone spot a mistake in either the Edge-XY analysis *or* the CoreXY analysis?
[forums.reprap.org]
the conclusion: CoreXY has a design flaw, which only surfaces under very specific (combined) conditions: (a) high acceleration, (b) carriage is off-centre on the X-Gantry (left or right, but the further away from centre the greater the distortion) and (c) movement (with high acceleration) is in the Y-direction.
if we were to work out a formula for the amount of distortion it would be:
* let width of printer be called X
* let the position of the carriage on the X-gantry be Px
* let center point of X-gantry be Cx, equal to X/2
* let acceleration in Y direction be Ya
* let c be an arbitrary constant
* let the function absolute(X) be equal to X if X > 0 otherwise -X
then the amount of distortion would be:
* c times absolute(Px-Cx) times Ya
the design flaw stems from the fact that the X-Gantry is free to rotate, with only the mechanical strength of the rails/rods and the attachment of the X-Gantry to those rails/rods being the sole method of stopping any such potential rotation.
in the message referenced above i carry out an analysis which shows that the Edge-XY concept does *not* suffer from this critical flaw.
can anyone spot a mistake in either the Edge-XY analysis *or* the CoreXY analysis?
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The Mighty Quin. (2 replies)
Decided to give my printer a name "The Mighty Quin". Yeh cheesy I know but it's big (so "Mighty") and has 5 of a lot of things (so "Quin"). Here is a little video showing the latest evolution of it [www.youtube.com].
The main changes are that it's now 5 colour (but interchangeable with my existing 3 colour hot ends), so has 5 E3D Titans instead of 3 and the extruder gantry is now a fully driven CoreXY in it's own right. So the extruders follow the hot end, rather than being passively dragged around by it.
Everything moves, heats and homes but that's as far as I've got with it so far.
Ian
The main changes are that it's now 5 colour (but interchangeable with my existing 3 colour hot ends), so has 5 E3D Titans instead of 3 and the extruder gantry is now a fully driven CoreXY in it's own right. So the extruders follow the hot end, rather than being passively dragged around by it.
Everything moves, heats and homes but that's as far as I've got with it so far.
Ian
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weird corexy drifting (7 replies)
Hi, I have been busy building myself a new 3d printer with extruded v-slot and a 400mm^3 build area! For my kinematics I deiced to drive it with a corexy belt system but I ran into a problem; when I tell the printer to move just one axis 10mm or so the other axis moves too. Here is a video of someone else's corexy machine with the same problem: [www.youtube.com]. I have switch the motors out, made sure the steppers drivers are set at the same voltage and the steps per mm and microstep settings are all the same, but still I get the same result. Please help!
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New Mini CoreXY Build (2 replies)
Hello All!
I've decided to finally post about my 3D printer build I've been working on for over 6 months now. The printer is designed to be a smaller build volume with dual extrusion with a corexy motion system. I decided to embrace the Digital Dentist's design method and use 1/2" tooling plate for most of the frame. Below are the specs on the rest of the printer
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I have a blog were I am detailing the build more at length. Feel free to check it out here: [www.additiveblog.com]
I'll also post updates on here as I can. My goal is to have this finished by the Milwaukee Maker Faire in September so I'll hopefully be moving quickly. After the printer is complete, I will post the CAD file as well. Let me know if you have any questions!
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I've decided to finally post about my 3D printer build I've been working on for over 6 months now. The printer is designed to be a smaller build volume with dual extrusion with a corexy motion system. I decided to embrace the Digital Dentist's design method and use 1/2" tooling plate for most of the frame. Below are the specs on the rest of the printer
- Hotend: E3D Chimera
- Extruders: J-Max Belt Bowden Extruder (about 200 mm bowden tube)
- Motion System: THK (9 mm) and Tompson (30 mm) linear guides
- Controller: Replicape
I have a blog were I am detailing the build more at length. Feel free to check it out here: [www.additiveblog.com]
I'll also post updates on here as I can. My goal is to have this finished by the Milwaukee Maker Faire in September so I'll hopefully be moving quickly. After the printer is complete, I will post the CAD file as well. Let me know if you have any questions!
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Opinions for new CoreXY build (no replies)
Hello All,
Since seeing Tech2C's HyperCube and Fusion's F306, I have been wanting to build a CoreXY printer. As of current, I have built myself a Prusa i3 Rework that has served me very well of the last couple of years.
My goals for this new CoreXY printer is to have a larger print area and to increase the print speed.
I am looking to take elements from both the HyperCube and the F306 for my build but I wanted to get an opinion on the way the Z-Axis is set up on the F306 with the single stepper motor and belt driven lead screws.
And I am looking for ideas of how to use 2020 T-Slot extrusion to build a platform to mount the heatbed on to.
Cheers.
Since seeing Tech2C's HyperCube and Fusion's F306, I have been wanting to build a CoreXY printer. As of current, I have built myself a Prusa i3 Rework that has served me very well of the last couple of years.
My goals for this new CoreXY printer is to have a larger print area and to increase the print speed.
I am looking to take elements from both the HyperCube and the F306 for my build but I wanted to get an opinion on the way the Z-Axis is set up on the F306 with the single stepper motor and belt driven lead screws.
And I am looking for ideas of how to use 2020 T-Slot extrusion to build a platform to mount the heatbed on to.
Cheers.
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Can someone mail me a working Marlin / RAMPS setup? (no replies)
Hi,
for some odd reason, I cannot get my machine to move. I tried a lot, the machine thinks it moves (changes x, y and z dimensions on the LCD), the hot-end works for real, but the motors are not energized. I hope I did something wrong in the Marlin set-up, but I cannot find it. Would someone be so kind as to send me a working CoreXY Marlin set-up to upload to the Arduino Mega? The settings don't really matter, I just want to see if it would energise the motors. I can adjust the settings myself if it does, one step at a time, so I can undo something if it stops working after a change.
Please PM me for my e-mail address if you can help me. I would really appreciate it.
Cheers,
Hugo
for some odd reason, I cannot get my machine to move. I tried a lot, the machine thinks it moves (changes x, y and z dimensions on the LCD), the hot-end works for real, but the motors are not energized. I hope I did something wrong in the Marlin set-up, but I cannot find it. Would someone be so kind as to send me a working CoreXY Marlin set-up to upload to the Arduino Mega? The settings don't really matter, I just want to see if it would energise the motors. I can adjust the settings myself if it does, one step at a time, so I can undo something if it stops working after a change.
Please PM me for my e-mail address if you can help me. I would really appreciate it.
Cheers,
Hugo
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Way too heavy bed to lift for my motors, what options? (11 replies)
Hi,
I have a basic RAMPS 1.4 setup with an A4988 driving the Z axis. I have two of these but with slightly smaller motors:
![nema17-Screw-stepper-motor-17HS4401S-M8x8-300MM-with-Copper-nut-lead-8mm-for-3D-printer-Z.jpg_640x640.jpg]( "nema17-Screw-stepper-motor-17HS4401S-M8x8-300MM-with-Copper-nut-lead-8mm-for-3D-printer-Z.jpg_640x640.jpg")
Now I was given a nice piece of tooling plate to make the bed of my printer, 440x440x10mm. But with it's mounting stuff on it weighs a ton (about 8kg?) and the motors can hold it, lower it, but no way they can raise it. What are my options? I am considering to cut off the threaded bar and mount 20T gears to the motors, and mount separate threaded bars on the frame with 60 or 80T gears on them to reduce the torque 3 or 4 times. Since it is only the Z axis and I plan to print 0,2mm layers, I won't loose a lot of time reducing the speed of the Z axis.
Another option I can think of is a thread with less pitch, like normal M8 thread with a bronze nut, but whether that would solve it...
I am open to suggestions!
[EDIT] It's 6,2kg, I just put it on the scales. I am thinking about lead counter weights, pulleys and wires. But that won't be nice and clean. I also have a NEMA 34 motor sitting idle... [/EDIT]
Cheers,
Hugo
I have a basic RAMPS 1.4 setup with an A4988 driving the Z axis. I have two of these but with slightly smaller motors:
Now I was given a nice piece of tooling plate to make the bed of my printer, 440x440x10mm. But with it's mounting stuff on it weighs a ton (about 8kg?) and the motors can hold it, lower it, but no way they can raise it. What are my options? I am considering to cut off the threaded bar and mount 20T gears to the motors, and mount separate threaded bars on the frame with 60 or 80T gears on them to reduce the torque 3 or 4 times. Since it is only the Z axis and I plan to print 0,2mm layers, I won't loose a lot of time reducing the speed of the Z axis.
Another option I can think of is a thread with less pitch, like normal M8 thread with a bronze nut, but whether that would solve it...
I am open to suggestions!
[EDIT] It's 6,2kg, I just put it on the scales. I am thinking about lead counter weights, pulleys and wires. But that won't be nice and clean. I also have a NEMA 34 motor sitting idle... [/EDIT]
Cheers,
Hugo
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MiniM's Core XY project (2 replies)
[attachment 97168 machine1.jpg]
Time for a buildthread for my CoreXY machine. I'm posting here since this is my first build and I need input on what stupid things I have designed that will not work so I can change them before building. Need all the help I can get so please post your thoughts :)
In short it's going to be built off these components:
-3030 Bosch Rexroth extrusions
-3030 Bosch Rexroth corner cubes
-2x MGN 15 500mm for the Y rails
-1X MGN 12 500mm for the X rail
-3X MGN 12 500mm for the Z axis
-3x 1204 ballscrews for the Z axis
-GT2 belt for the core xy mechanism
-3d printed parts but designed with CNC machininig in mind for all but the hotend mount.
-Guesstimated print area of approx 440x440x390mm
-5mm alu bed with 800W 230V bed
-2x NEMA17 steppers for core xy
-1x NeMA17 geared down for the Z axis joined by belt between the ballscrews
-Titan aero extruder
-Corner brackets to ensure rigid frame (not in CAD drawing)
-Duet Wifi eletronics
-Bed probing is undecided yet as I'm testing various setupts on my other printer (FSR or IR-sensor is the most likely choice)
Snapshot of the core xy design without crossing belts
[attachment 97169 corexy.jpg]
And I'm getting ready to chop the extrusions once they arrive. It's designed to us 590mm extrusions all over so I'm going to cut 16 of those in the same lenght.
[attachment 97170 kappejig.jpg]
The Z axis design is not complete yet as I think this will be very hard to align and there is a big chance of binding and overconstrain with fixed mounted ballscrews and linear rails on 3 spots. This is usual to do on CNC machines but aligning this in extrusions might be a nightmare. I didn't draw the supporting 3030 for the linear rail on the Z axis either but since I'm clueless on how to make the Z so it's very rigid I stopped at this.
Time for a buildthread for my CoreXY machine. I'm posting here since this is my first build and I need input on what stupid things I have designed that will not work so I can change them before building. Need all the help I can get so please post your thoughts :)
In short it's going to be built off these components:
-3030 Bosch Rexroth extrusions
-3030 Bosch Rexroth corner cubes
-2x MGN 15 500mm for the Y rails
-1X MGN 12 500mm for the X rail
-3X MGN 12 500mm for the Z axis
-3x 1204 ballscrews for the Z axis
-GT2 belt for the core xy mechanism
-3d printed parts but designed with CNC machininig in mind for all but the hotend mount.
-Guesstimated print area of approx 440x440x390mm
-5mm alu bed with 800W 230V bed
-2x NEMA17 steppers for core xy
-1x NeMA17 geared down for the Z axis joined by belt between the ballscrews
-Titan aero extruder
-Corner brackets to ensure rigid frame (not in CAD drawing)
-Duet Wifi eletronics
-Bed probing is undecided yet as I'm testing various setupts on my other printer (FSR or IR-sensor is the most likely choice)
Snapshot of the core xy design without crossing belts
[attachment 97169 corexy.jpg]
And I'm getting ready to chop the extrusions once they arrive. It's designed to us 590mm extrusions all over so I'm going to cut 16 of those in the same lenght.
[attachment 97170 kappejig.jpg]
The Z axis design is not complete yet as I think this will be very hard to align and there is a big chance of binding and overconstrain with fixed mounted ballscrews and linear rails on 3 spots. This is usual to do on CNC machines but aligning this in extrusions might be a nightmare. I didn't draw the supporting 3030 for the linear rail on the Z axis either but since I'm clueless on how to make the Z so it's very rigid I stopped at this.
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Zasquatch's CoreXY Design/Build (3 replies)
I have started to grow my business and have come to the point where potential jobs on the horizon will require larger and more reliable equipment! I started by researching the large format "heavy duty" printers currently on the market, but then I stumbled upon the many build threads on the various forums. Since my business is design/engineering and 3d printing/prototyping, why the heck wouldn't I design and build my own?! This also allows to build a machine to the exact specs I want, with the components I want, and not have to settle for shortcuts that many "boxes" printers have.
Requirements were straightforward. Reliable, robust, large build plate, dual direct drive extrusion, ability to transport through common household doors.
After reviewing many many builds I settled on a CoreXY machine... and ended up using the digital dentist build as my bible. (tu)
I will post updates as I progress but it will probably be prettt sporadic - I have a 2 month old son that is rather distracting :)
I have settled on the following components so far:
Duet wifi + meanwell 24v power supply
Dual titan aero extruders
Hiwin AG20 series linear guides for x/y plane (thanks to automationoverstock.com!)
IKO 30 series rails/guides for z-axis - in the mail, receiving Friday
MIC6 build plate - current plan is to use a single ball screw for z axis and cantilever the bed
NEMA 17 steppers for x/y, single NEMA23 for z-axis
More details to follow!
Requirements were straightforward. Reliable, robust, large build plate, dual direct drive extrusion, ability to transport through common household doors.
After reviewing many many builds I settled on a CoreXY machine... and ended up using the digital dentist build as my bible. (tu)
I will post updates as I progress but it will probably be prettt sporadic - I have a 2 month old son that is rather distracting :)
I have settled on the following components so far:
Duet wifi + meanwell 24v power supply
Dual titan aero extruders
Hiwin AG20 series linear guides for x/y plane (thanks to automationoverstock.com!)
IKO 30 series rails/guides for z-axis - in the mail, receiving Friday
MIC6 build plate - current plan is to use a single ball screw for z axis and cantilever the bed
NEMA 17 steppers for x/y, single NEMA23 for z-axis
More details to follow!
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Bed drops when motors are turned off (3 replies)
Hi guys
I recently completed a vulcanus max 40 and i have run into a smag it seems that when i then off the printer the bed falls. Is there anything i could do to keep the bed up after powering the printer off?
I recently completed a vulcanus max 40 and i have run into a smag it seems that when i then off the printer the bed falls. Is there anything i could do to keep the bed up after powering the printer off?
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10mm Lead Screw (or other alternatives) (4 replies)
Hey guys, I'm looking to build a corexy with three 10mm (diameter) lead screws. The build height will be tall, at around 700mm. What are your thoughts on 10mm lead screws? Should I use a belt drive? Maybe ball screws?
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